Stained in wonderful shades of blue and tucked high into Morocco’s earthy brown and green Rif Mountains, sits the once secret town of Chefchaouen — or ‘Chaouen’ to its friends. At its heart, a 500-year-old fortress bears testament to the town’s founding as a site of protection, initially from the Portuguese, then as a shelter for Muslim and Jewish refugees escaping persecution during the Spanish Inquisition.