A conversation with chef Giovanni Luca Di Pirro of COMO Castello Del Nero. Italian food has the reputation of being delicious but decadent—cuisine as an indulgence, rather than a healthy everyday staple. But is this true at its source?
At our 740-acre Tuscan estate, COMO Castello Del Nero, chef Giovanni Luca di Pirro – who oversees the Michelin-starred kitchen of La Torre – prepares Italian menus with health at its heart. The dishes showcase Tuscan ingredients ranging from crisp greens to rich truffles and wild boar, proudly sourced from local farmers and our own organic garden.
We catch up with chef Giovanni to discuss food in life, advice for novices, and his favourite places to visit in Tuscany…
What does food mean to Italian culture?
In Italy – and maybe universally – sharing food is a fundamental way of establishing interpersonal relationships, whether romance or family. Food is also synonymous with friendship to me, for the pleasure I get by sharing it with others.
Do you have any insider tips for where to eat in Florence?
It’s difficult to go wrong eating anywhere in Florence, as it is full of excellent trattorias and restaurants. However, for outstanding traditional Tuscan cuisine, a must-try is Cibreo: a family restaurant that plays with the heritage of Italian flavours and scents with classically prepared vegetables, fish and meat.
Can Italian cuisine be healthy?
Tuscan cuisine is simple dishes with fresh ingredients, not heavy complex ones. The world may think Italian food is heavy because of serving it in large quantities, but the focus of Tuscan cuisine has always been local products such as extra virgin olive oil, meats, cold cuts and cheeses. The origin of Italian cuisine is from the Mediterranean diet – which everyone knows has plenty of health benefits, including increased longevity and lower risk of chronic disease. What’s not healthy about that?
How does Italian food align with our COMO Shambhala philosophy for nutritious cuisine?
I’m interested in the trend of using organic and regenerative produce at La Torre – our Michelin-starred restaurant – to promote wellness through green cuisine. Many of my dishes are therefore inherently synchronised with COMO Shambhala’s focus on holistic nutrition.
What is cooking to you: art, craft or science?
Cooking is based on science, but with years of steady dedication to craft, it becomes art in the hands of chefs.
Where is your favourite place in Tuscany?
My memory goes to Castiglione della Pescaia: a historic fishing village by the sea with beautiful beaches and pine forests, where I visited with my then wife-to-be many years ago. It’s the most beautiful destination on the Tuscan coastline, just opposite Elba Island. You can drive to it in about two hours from COMO Castello Del Nero.
What is your personal favourite dish to eat?
I have two! One is my mother’s baked lasagna. That recipe is a secret. The other is Etruscan soup, a deceptively simple dish that consists of vegetables, legumes and fresh herbs.
Do you have any Italian dish recommendations for someone new to cooking?
You can never go wrong making spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and basil, plus a generous sprinkling of grated parmesan on top. Look for fresh and seasonal produce, and cook them in a simple way that brings out their natural flavour. Pairing it with a good glass of wine always helps.
COMO Castello Del Nero is our historic 12th-century estate nestled in the Chianti region: known for being home to some of the best food and wine in the world. Besides dining at Chef Giovanni’s La Torre, you can also enjoy food-related experiences such as truffle hunting or a cooking class with Chef Giovanni himself.
