In a peachy pink Ponsonby villa, fire meets finesse.
Kol sits proudly on the edge of Auckland’s Western Park. Peachy-pink, green-trimmed and quietly playful, it feels both welcoming and well-established within the neighbourhood. Inside, the mood shifts to something moodier and more refined yet soft thanks to diffused lighting and thoughtful design.
Pronounced ‘coal’, this Ponsonby highlight now thrives under the direction of Sapan and Ruchi Parikh who took the reins in mid-2025. They have reimagined the traditional Indian chulu, a clay stove used for slow cooking over firewood, into something contemporary and soulful. It’s clear that fire is the quiet hero here, lending smoke, spice and depth to even the simplest of ingredients.
We tried the set menu, a curated collection, Sapan explained, born from a series of event tastings that revealed the restaurant’s most loved dishes. It’s a clever and thoughtful way of listening to what guests like, and a great option if you’ve never been, allowing you to try a little of everything they do best.
Opening our eventful evening was the Beet Tikki. This had a comforting consistency, almost potato-like, but packed full of earthy flavours and paired with a mint yoghurt chutney that cut through with a perfectly sharp and refreshing lift. Coupled with this was the Lamb Taco. Tender, flame-licked and superbly seasoned meat with just the right amount of heat, tucked in flatbread and brightened by pickled onion and coriander.
As someone who’s known to dodge the odd vegetable when there’s other options on the table, I did not expect the BBQ Broccoli to steal the show. But it did. It was charred and deeply flavoured through every floret. Smoke, spice, sweet… spectacular.
The main was paired with a Kulcha, naan’s decadent cousin, liberally filled with goat’s cheese, porcini and truffle. It’s one of those dishes that doesn’t shout but is quietly smile-inducing. The kind that makes you pause mid conversation and just, nod.
Dessert arrived with a surprise. At first you’ll be surprised by the artistic display of a bold pink rosette bouncing off the black stone dish. And then you take a bite. The delicate Rice Pastry, tinted pink by beetroot’s natural dye, conceals a hidden burst of Boysenberry and White Chocolate Cheesecake.
One takeaway from dining at Kol, especially with the set menu, is that every dish feels thoughtfully portioned, never heavy or excessive. There were no fillers, or unnecessary bread or bulk, just layers of flavour, texture and spice with each dish standing confidently on its own.
Kol feels like a restaurant that is built on balance. Between tradition and innovation, fire and finesse, the familiar and the intriguing. It captures what Ponsonby does best. Blending the world’s flavours with a sense of home.
23 Ponsonby Road, Grey Lynn
021 379 700
info@kolauckland.co.nz
kolauckland.co.nz
WORDS — JESSICA WEALE
