In a beauty world obsessed with immediacy, there’s something quietly radical about preparation. It’s not dramatic. It’s not trending. It’s not even visible. But in the skilled hands of a permanent makeup (PMU) artist, prep becomes the foundation of the entire experience, long before the needle touches skin.
For Sheila Ferneyhough – a PMU artist and founder of The Refinery in Mission Bay – permanent makeup is less of a service and more of a ceremony. “Building something beautiful on a neglected canvas can be a little challenging” she says.
“As a PMU artist, I don’t just work on skin—I work with it,” continues Sheila, whose approach to brows, lips, and liner mirrors the quiet precision of a hand
-sewn hem. “Your skin is the canvas. The way you prepare it determines the outcome entirely.”
And prep, darling, is everything!
The Slow Beauty Countdown
Unlike throwaway trends or 10-minute facials, PMU is about patience. Think of it as a pre-show rehearsal for the skin – a beauty slow burn where every step matters.
Four weeks out, the ritual begins. Waxing and tinting are paused. Accutane is stopped. By week three, lash and brow serums – those little overachievers – are shelved. At two weeks, it’s time to retire acids and peels, scan your cleanser labels for hidden AHAs, and let the skin breathe.
People underestimate how much skincare can affect pigment retention. One stray active (ingredient) can be all it takes to derail flawless healing.
One week before, tanning is off limits. Then, 48 hours prior, it’s time to skip alcohol, beauty supplements, and those buzzy fish oils. The day before? Cancel your HIIT class. Avoid aspirin, ibuprofen, vitamin E, and niacin. These all thin the blood – and in the world of PMU, a clean, controlled surface is gold.
“It’s a quiet commitment. You’re choosing to give your face the best possible starting point.”
What about injectables?
It’s all about timing. Fillers? At least six weeks before or after PMU. Botox or Dysport? Two weeks minimum, in either direction. And while we’re talking timing – yes, your cycle matters. Sensitivity peaks around menstruation, so plan accordingly if you want your experience to feel as effortless as it looks.
The Velvet Lip Ritual
If your heart is set on lip blush for a splash of colour, you’re not just prepping skin – you’re preparing texture.
Hydration is the key. Think litres, not sips, and coconut water is the business. Gently exfoliate each day and apply balm morning and night for a week before your session.
“Dry lips resist pigment, your lips want to be as smooth as satin.”
If you’re prone to cold sores (HSV), take antiviral medication three days before and three days after. It’s not glamorous, but it’s essential. Trauma to the skin can trigger outbreaks – even if you’ve never had one before.
When Beauty Must Wait
Not every face is ready to receive PMU. If you’re pregnant or nursing, the answer is no – no exceptions. There just isn’t enough safety data available. Clients should wait until the little one is weaned. The beauty will still be here.
Those undergoing cancer treatment must wait six months post-recovery, with doctor’s clearance. Keloid prone should steer clear of microblading and those using medicated topical steroids like hydrocortisone, will need medical approval, as skin may be deemed too thin for PMU.
PMU may not always be possible, however, there are more suitable alternatives.
The Last Touch
During your treatment, topical anaesthetics ensure comfort. But if you’re sensitive to lidocaine, epinephrine, or tetracaine, transparency is key. “Let me know ahead of time,” Sheila says, “so an alternative of motivational mantras and breathing techniques can be prepared for you.”
Because beauty isn’t a sprint to perfection. It’s a ceremony of details, designed to reveal—not conceal – what’s already there, one considered step at a time.
