Harbour Society

The Roving Gourmets | Harbour Society

Dennis & Rosamund Knill

In a world blighted by overlong menus, overworked dishes and overreaching chefs, Harbour Society excels with one of the best chefs and menus in the city

 

Hotel gastronomy tends to come and go like the tide, yet there are a small band of gifted chefs like Roy Giam who inspire diners with ambitious dishes that are crafted with great flair and finesse.

 

The a la carte bill of fare is regimented into sets and styles, but passion and intensity lurk within them. Included are hors d’oeuvres, entrees, large plates, wood-fired grill and plates to share. Hors d’oeuvres include sourdough bread ($12); cheese gougeres ($8); and Morton Bay roll ($16) followed by entrees ($25) of cured salmon, grilled squid, venison tartare, and wood-fired halloumi and jalapeno.

 

For large plates, there’s the likes of roasted duck breast ($45); market fish ($45); venison ($45); and garden trims ravioli ($40). We chose pan-fried swordfish ($45) paired with baby octopus, citrus beurre blanc, caper berries, and dill, and venison osso bucco ($45) paired with risotto, wilted spinach and lemon gremolata. Both dishes brought refinement and value to the table.

The depth of talent from the open kitchen is consistently bold, while dishes are generous and artfully presented with fresh flavours balanced with straightforward ingredients.

Harbour Society

The wood-fired grill and plates to share are perhaps the best in town, with a selection of barbecued cauliflower ($38); salmon ($46); handpicked sirloin ($55); wagyu scotch ($92); Kagoshima Japanese wagyu ($350); ribeye on the bone ($145); and rack of lamb ($130).    

 

And don’t miss dessert – although there are only two, they’re designed to appeal: orchard cloud ($24) made up with meringue, citrus, almond praline, and feijoa and café pistache with Bailey’s coffee, white chocolate and pistachio ice cream. Both are text-book perfect.

 

Then, we could make a separate entry discussing the globetrotting wine list, with its rich and varied old and new quality vintages. 

 

And the verdict? The depth of talent from the open kitchen is consistently bold, while dishes are generous and artfully presented with fresh flavours balanced with straightforward ingredients. Top-notch table service adds to a memorable dining experience that won’t ravage the budget. 

Rating 19/20

Harbour Society: SO/Auckland, 67 Customs Street, CBD | 379 1860

so-hotels.com.auckland