Quietly concealed in Auckland’s busy harbourside is a magnet giving lessons in how to be big and bold without compromising quality and finesse.
The engaging synergy between land and sea at La Marée is executed with a new menu transformed from local produce into imaginative and contemporary dishes served with flair and generosity. As a consequence, it’s popular and venerated by locals, and not just hotel guests.
All too often restaurants lose their way with complicated menus with too many ingredients, but here their professional package delivers clever but simple food with a reassuring sense that works.
Entrees that are hard to resist include freshly chucked oysters, served natural or tempura (from $38); pan-seared scallops ($30); cured king salmon ($29); lobster ravioli ($32); kingfish crudo ($29); steamed green-lip mussels ($23); seared wild venison ($30); and tomato carpaccio ($24).
The main menu recreates and reconstructs a collection of timeless classics like long-line market fish ($49); pan-seared salmon ($49); seared duck breast ($49); spring lamb loin ($54); braised short rib ($52); ricotta and spinach agnolotti ($43); bostock chicken breast ($30); and, for meat-eaters, the speckle-eye fillet ($51) and handpicked scotch fillet ($59) are big hits.
The theme continues with sides. Included are brussel sprouts and toasted nuts ($16); baby cos salad ($16); shoestring fries ($16); mesclun lettuce ($15); and garlic roasted baby potatoes ($15).
Desserts ($25) cover all the bases with finesse and full-throttle flavours making a fitting conclusion to a confident meal. It’s hard to pass up on poached pear and vanilla rice pudding, coffee, caramel and chocolate cubes, green apple and chestnut mont blanc, and a delightful cheese platter ($49).
A strong menu-driven wine list divides its loyalties between local curiosities and imported vintages with an excellent choice of by-the-glass offerings.
And the verdict? While there’s little you won’t have seen before, the menu shows diverse influences with seasonality and precision cooking that plays a major part. Service is sharp, friendly and unpretentious, and hardly misses a beat
