Western Australia has long suffered from the ‘tyranny of distance’ and is often reduced in the global imagination to mining booms and quokka selfies. Yet cultural isolation is a myth.
Perth welcomes up to 27 international arrivals daily, directly from the likes of London, Paris, Johannesburg, and Southeast Asia, alongside my own flight from Auckland. A week spent traversing its coast and hinterland reveals a destination that has matured into a sophisticated player on the world stage, blending natural features with world class hospitality.
Perth has shed its former reputation as a big country town. With the colossal Optus Stadium, global juggernauts like Coldplay and Metallica visit, alongside major sporting fixtures from the Rugby World Cup to the Ashes series. Checking into the Crown Towers, the quality ambition is apparent. This is not merely a hotel, but a resort complex recognised rightfully by Forbes as one of the world’s finest.
Walking through the vast foyer, I encountered a rare exhibition of original Terracotta Warriors on loan from China, a cultural coup that underscores the venue’s prestige. The private Crystal Club lounge provided the perfect vantage point for sunset drinks on the west-facing balcony, watching the light fade over the city and immense Swan river.
Dining options within the complex are equally impressive, from Epicurean and its staggering buffet to Bistro Guillaume, channelling classic Parisian fare. Over a textbook cheese soufflé and steak tartare, the bustle of the room felt more like France than Australia.
A walking tour of the city showed Perth to be inviting, clean, and undeniably new in parts, particularly the soon-to-open university and Elizabeth Quay waterfront. Yet the real charm lies in the repurposed heritage spaces, such as the State Buildings. Once government administrative offices, they now house high-end retail and wine bars, The City’s is honouring its history while modernising.
Just an hour east in the Perth Hills, this developing wine region offers a country charm. Morning tea at The Flackyard was an education in A-grade “bush tucker”. Owners Nik and Emily source ingredients almost exclusively from First Nations producers, creating dishes that are both ethical and delicious, paired with complex non-alcoholic beverages.
The beverage theme continued at Lion Mill Vineyards, a small, couple-run estate that contrasts sharply with the industrial scale of larger producers. Nearby, the Beelu Forest Distilling Company utilises the region’s granite-filtered water to produce spirits of startling clarity.
Accommodation in the Hills matches the landscape’s serenity. Amaroo Retreat provides an adults-only escape where luxury chalets feature private spas on decks facing the bushland. Quiet and secluded, one feels entirely removed from the modern world. Another highlight was La Fattoria. Run by a fourth-generation Sicilian family, the “Nonna’s Table” experience is a long, lazy affair celebrating local produce and Italian wine varietals. In the southerly Margaret River region, the landscape shifts to a more lush, manicured landscape with vines that have made the area world-famous. The region is honeycombed with limestone caves, offering a cooling break from the sun. We emerged to visit Yallingup Beach, a classic Australian scene of white sand and a protected lagoon before the vast rolling expanse of the Indian ocean.
Margaret River is well developed and the drive south revealed a family-friendly side to the region. Lunch was at the Masseria restaurant at the beautiful Cherubino vineyards. We also visited Hayshed Wines, a large operation nestled in a valley protected by gum trees. The final day brought us to Voyager Estate, a destination defined by its mature gardens and “wine-first” philosophy. A sumptuous and creative tasting menu here showcased the estate’s commitment to excellence, with the standout dish being a unique aged, dried, pressed lamb.
The week peaked in the World’s 50 Best Vineyards awards (see next page) at Amelia Park Wines, but the trip concluded in the port city of Fremantle. Dropping bags at the Garde Hotel, a new boutique property, the final meal was at Emily Taylor. Tucked away in a limestone courtyard, its Asian-fusion shared plates and relaxed service felt like a microcosm of Western Australia today: confident, diverse, and effortlessly welcoming for anyone seeking a destination for food or family – or wine of course!
