Words — Jess Waddell
As you drive towards the Auckland Airport terminals you feel like you might be about to go on an adventure. And while you might not be getting on a plane, you are certainly in for an incredible culinary journey.
Te Kaahu is on level nine of the Te Arikinui Pullman Auckland Airport, and the lift opens to a space that feels unexpectedly expansive. It’s bright, open, refined, and the restaurant itself carries a calm kind of elegance.
Overhead, lights stretch out and trail across the ceiling in organic patterns. After learning that Te Kaahu was named after the majestic hawk of Aotearoa I found myself wondering if those shapes and patterns were like the hawk’s flight paths, tracing invisible currents through the sky. Something I used to watch a lot as a child living rurally.
At the helm is Executive Chef Nancye Pirini whose menu celebrates the culinary traditions of Te Ao Māori kai while embracing a modern, refined approach. There is a clear sense of the dishes carrying a story, not only of the land and sea, but also personal memory. That becomes even more apparent when you meet Nancye.
We began with a contemporary take on ika mata. It arrived as delicate slices of fresh kingfish paired with coconut panna cotta, capsicum chilli salsa and a bright citrus dressing. It’s light and refreshing, a great starter, balancing acidity and creaminess in all the right ways.
Alongside this came the fried bread. Nancye told us that the fermented starter, or ‘bug’ – often used for traditional Māori Rēwena bread – is the same bug passed through her family, carrying with it a sense of continuity and care. Growing up in New Zealand, fried bread is something many of us have eaten, but this is really something else. Pillow-soft and steaming as you pull it apart, it’s served with kina butter that melts almost instantly into the warm crumb. One bite quickly turns into another, each a little more generous with the butter than the last.
For one of our mains we ordered the roasted cauliflower. Perhaps not typically a dish you’d lead with, but it was recommended by the staff and absolutely worth it. A perfectly cooked cauliflower steak that sits over a velvety chickpea purée, layered with green herb and caper salsa, toasted kale, lemon chickpeas, pickled cranberries and nuts and seeds. I thought the textures carried this dish just as much as the flavours did. Smooth, crispy, tangy, creamy and rich.
The Mt Cook salmon was a little more of a classic dish, but no less considered. Cooked beautifully, it was paired with celeriac puree, broccolini, pickled fennel and a yuzu hollandaise style sauce. A well-balanced dish that lets the produce do the talking.
There have been a few dishes this year that have been convincing me just how delicious a vegetable can be, and the side of kumara at Te Kaahu is one of those. Hangi Master kumara with Kaimai Range honey, salted sour cream and chilli hangi crumbs. Maybe it’s the caramelised edges, or the softness within. Or maybe it’s the balance of sweet, savoury and cool. This dish is so comforting, it goes far beyond flavour almost tapping into something emotional.
The lemon tart for dessert was a welcome shift. After a meal that leans into richness and depth, it was sharp and citrusy layered with mandarin, a touch of honey and a citrus snap.
The service throughout the evening felt warm and genuine. Our waitress, Sheryl, made us feel at ease, while Geoffroy and Tony added to the experience with their knowledge of the menu and wine list. Their recommendations were more than just descriptions, offering stories of the local winemakers and producers that deepened the connection between what was on the plate and where it came from.
This is also really what defines Te Kaahu. There is a strong sense of place, not just in ingredients but also the people behind it. The restaurant speaks to Aotearoa.
For those arriving in New Zealand and staying at the Pullman, it’s an introduction to our country that goes beyond convenient dining. And for anyone else it’s a reminder that sometimes a memorable journey doesn’t need a boarding pass.
To book or to find out more information visit tekaahu.nz
