SERVES 2-3
In 2010, archaeologists Arunima Kashyap and Steve Weber used starch analysis to trace a handi (cooking vessel) made of earthenware which was excavated from Farmana in the Ghaggar-Hakra valley near modern-day Delhi. Through this analysis, they claimed they discovered the ‘proto’, or ‘original’ curry, which I would really call a sabji, or braised vegetable. Braised eggplant is prepared in most Indian regions, and each has its own unique take on the dish. The eggplants in this recipe are silky, and the spices are mild but flavourful. When I had just given birth to my son, I was given a special diet by my mother. It is believed that new mothers should eat certain foods when breastfeeding to aid a newborn’s digestion. What appeared most frequently on the menu was eggplant sabji with ginger, turmeric and black pepper cooked in ghee.
INGREDIENTS
20g piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
10g garlic cloves, peeled
30ml sesame oil, or Ghee
800g eggplant, destemmed and cut into bite-sized cubes
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
Finely chopped coriander and freshly ground black pepper, to garnish (optional)
Utensils
Kadhai or heavy-based wok
Always use fresh eggplant, as older aubergine doesn’t cook as well and out-of-season eggplant creates an unpleasant tingling sensation on the tip of the tongue.
Ghee, the cheat’s version
Makes 350g
500g (2 cups) unsalted butter
Utensils
Patili or heavy-based pot
Slotted spoon
Heat the butter in a patili or heavy-based pot over a medium heat until it reaches 140°C on a cooking thermometer. Remove any impurities that rise to the surface with a slotted spoon. No pat is produced in this version. Take the ghee off the heat, let it cool, then strain and store in an airtight container or sterilised glass jar at room temperature for up to 1 month.
METHOD
Crush the ginger and garlic to a smooth paste with a mortar and pestle.
Heat the sesame oil in a kadhai or heavy-based wok over a medium heat. Fry the crushed ginger and garlic till slightly brown, then add the eggplant.
Increase the heat to high, stir to coat the eggplant in the oil, then add the turmeric and salt to taste, and mix well. Cook for 1 minute.
Mix the eggplant one more time, scraping the bottom of the pot. Lower the heat to medium, cover the kadhai and cook for 7 minutes, stirring periodically, or until the eggplant is soft.
For a modern-day take, add some finely chopped coriander and some freshly ground black pepper to garnish. Serve with rice.
Edited recipe extract from
The Food of Bharat by Helly Raichura, published by Hardie Grant Books. Available now.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JANA LANGHORST & BRETT COLE
