Verve catches up with some cool Kiwi chefs to talk about the festive season.
Pierre-Allain Fenoux
Jano Bistro, Wellington
Pierre is the head chef and co-owner (along with his partner, Diana) of Jano Bistro, one of the coolest little restaurants in our coolest of little capitals. The iconic Wellington eatery, almost as famous for its setting in an unmistakable yellow two-storey cottage as it is for its seasonal, locally sourced fine dining fare, is named in honour of Pierre’s grandfather who was the community gardener in his hometown of Aix Les Bains in France.
Growing up, Pierre says that he liked nothing better than helping to harvest the produce from his family’s garden and fishing for freshwater cray. Aged only three years, it soon become obvious where his destiny lay, when he would sit with a wooden spoon stirring Lego blocks in a pot! In true Gallic style, most of his childhood—and indeed, Christmas—memories, he says, revolve around the dinner table.
“I have so many memories, of being with family, all being together eating great food and cheese, you know,” he recalls. “As well as poultry, at Christmas time, we eat smoked salmon and foie gras. Snails are also popular around this time—we don’t have them every day for breakfast like many people assume!”
Have you converted many Kiwis to them?
“No, but we do put them on the menu from time to time, but it’s still pretty special for you guys.”
Any other non-traditional Christmas favourites?
“You can use pretty much anything nowadays, from venison to beef wellington.”
Tips for the everyday Kiwi making a Christmas dinner?
“You can make a really delicious, simple gravy by reducing red wine and adding chicken or beef stock along with carrots, garlic and onion.”
Best Christmas cocktail?
“In France we have something called kir, which is a blackcurrant liqueur topped up with either sparkling wine or champagne. It’s very simple, but very good!”
Favourite festive memory is an easy one for Pierre having met got together with Diana one New Year’s Eve. “We’re still not sure what we’ll be doing this year,” he adds, “but it will probably involve beer and barbecues!”
And as for resolutions?
“It’s the same every year, usually along the lines of getting more healthy, but it never happens!”
Adele Jenner
Catroux Café and Catering, Auckland
Catroux Café is among the city’s loveliest eateries, the Westmere establishment is in an airy modern space famed for its fresh produce (and decorative flowers), awesome coffee and irresistible treats. Founder Adele Jenner has always been fascinated with cooking – and caring – for others, making dinner for her mum for when she got home from work, as well as regularly treating her parents to breakfast in bed. “I’ve always had a love to please people with food,” she beams.
And what of your favourite childhood Christmas memories?
“Foodwise, not so much—except for dessert! Every kid loves pavlova with cream and strawberries It’s all about the presents when you’re a kid. One year my brother and I unwrapped all of our presents and wrapped them back up again so our parents didn’t notice—how naughty!”
As an adult, Adele says that among her fondest festive memories is being in Morocco with three friends, one of whom worked as an EA to “the big boss man of a five-star hotel group”.
“So we were wined and dined for next to nothing, eating at the most amazing places and making the most of the excellent service from those at the five-star resort who wanted my friend to put in a good word to her boss! We were so lucky.”
Favourite Christmas meal?
“I have had a mixed time of Christmases. The last few years I have been so exhausted by our Christmas Day catering orders on the 24th that I love anything that is cooked for me! Last year, my stepdad made a beautiful slow-cooked pork in his Webber—that was great!
“Summer corn on the barbecue is one of my favourites, finished with a coat of parmesan and Lewis butter. I love anything fresh. I can never go past a rocket, pear and parmesan salad. I especially love good quality extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. My fridge will always have sundried tomato pesto and basil pesto—you can make anything with a few simple flavours.”
Fave Christmas cocktail?
“Who doesn’t love a margarita?”
Ever kissed under the mistletoe?
“I don’t think so!”
Memorable New Year moments?
“Not really, the epic ones always come with a bad hangover!”
What are you most excited about this upcoming festive period?
“Bringing happiness, via our food, to so many others! It’s clear so many people are unable actually cook these days so our Christmas day catering seems to make so many people have a stress-free day.”
How will you spend this New Year?
“With my partner, our two small kids, and a few other friends at a bach we’ve hired at Omaha—most likely a barbecue then put all the kids to bed early and party.”
And resolutions?
“Get more sleep, do more pilates, have more time!”
Kyle Street
Culprit, Auckland
A career in the kitchen couldn’t have seemed further from the cards of Culprit head chef and co-owner Kyle Street who was “a fussy kid who wouldn’t eat my greens”. “It was then,” he chuckles, “tasting a perfectly cooked and seasoned green bean while working as a dishwasher in Wellington that set me down this path that has now become an obsession.”
Childhood Christmases were classic Kiwi affairs “caravanning at Foxton Beach, water skiing on the Manawatu and a double scoop vanilla ice cream with a flake from the local dairy”.
Ever kissed under the mistletoe?
“Is that really a thing? I feel like I’ve missed out on that one!”
Culprit is one the CBD’s coolest, contemporary eateries, famed for its twist on yum cha, with each signature dish crafted using local sourced seasonal produce. So, are there any surprise twists that Kyle likes to add to his festive feasts?
“Last year I rubbed a wagyu beef tri tip—near the sirloin—with Gochujang, a Korean fermented chilli paste, and roasted it on my barbecue till just on medium, it was epic.”
Any tips for more traditional Christmas staples?
“I’ll be making my take on chicken stuffing at Culprit over this New Year period. My trick? Use chicken salt to season your stuffing mix for added chook flavour.”
Do you have a favourite festive cocktail?
“If for some reason I have some open champagne or bubbles the day after, I like to serve it over a nip of Lemoncello, or my personal fave, Yuzucello.”
What are your stand-out New Year memories?
“Being in central London watching the fireworks display off the London Eye. Afterwards, we ended up walking in circles trying to find a way home as all the tube and bus stops were closed due to the millions of revellers on the streets. We didn’t get in until about 7am, but kept the party going.”
How will you spend this New Year?
“Much like most New Years Eves, I’ll be working the pass at Culprit. This year we’re offering our New Year Epic Menu, 10-plus of our favourite courses from the year. Then my wife and I are off to house/dog sit for our good friends, Lisa and Nod, previously of Mahurangi oysters. So, there will be much fizz and bivalves.”
New Year’s resolutions?
“It’s been a wild year for sure. There are a lot of restauranteurs out there doing it tough, so my resolution will be to continue to be thankful for what I have.”
