Chilled creamy custards, milk puddings and rice puddings are wonderful –the Persians invented some of them, the Arabs loved them and the Ottomans refined them. Some are deeply traditional; others have a modern twist. You can serve the puddings with ghoriba if you like.
SERVES: 4-6
Ingredients:
- 600ml/2½ cups milk
- 115g/2/3 cup sugar, plus 60ml/4 tbsp for caramel
- Pinch of saffron threads
- 2.5ml/½ tsp cardamom seeds
- 15–30ml/1–2 tbsp rose flower water
- 4 eggs, lightly beaten
- 60ml/4 tbsp boiling water
Method:
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/gas 4. Heat the milk, sugar, saffron and cardamom in a pan until the milk is just about to boil. Set aside to cool. Add the rose water, then gradually pour the mixture into the eggs, beating all the time. Set aside.
To make the caramel, heat the 60ml/4 tbsp sugar in a small heavy pan until melted and dark brown. Stir in the boiling water, holding the pan at arm’s length as the caramel will spit. Let it bubble before tipping it into individual crème caramel dishes, dividing equally. Swirl the dishes to coat the base and sides evenly. Leave to cool.
Pour the custard into the dishes and stand them in a roasting pan. Pour in cold water to two-thirds of the way up the dishes. Bake in the oven for about 1 hour, or until the custard has set. Cool, then chill for several hours or overnight.
To serve, run a knife around the edges of the dishes and invert onto plates. Serve immediately.

Edited recipe extract from The Moroccan Cookbook by Ghillie Başan, ISBN 9780754835646, published by Lorenz Books, $95





